Milan - I Am Almost Done!

I am sitting in the bar of the Anderson Star Hotel recalling of the things that we have seen and done since we arrived in Milan on Saturday. Whew. Busy, but interesting distractions. Didn't go to Rome-too much happening there at the moment. Today we visited the Museum of La Scala. Inability to go to a performance was not too disappointing. We walked into one of the reserved boxes and immediately had a sense of the atmosphere when the theatre's seats were filled to capacity. I imagined that I could almost hear the chatter of the audience awaiting the performance and I expected the lights soon to dim. As we stood there gazing at the magnificient decor I thought about the costumes, the eyes of audience members casually searching the theatre for other bejewelled or elegently dressed patrons.The also imagined sounds eminating from the smartly dressed muscians warming up in the orchestra pit. The orchestra pit much smaller than I had thought yet the stage much larger than expected. Standing in that guilded box with red velvet chairs revealed more than anticipated. The items displayed in the museum allowed us to partake a little of the theatre's history. No photographs permitted inside. No happy snaps! Duomo also on the list of sights today and we actually entered the cathederal. Passed through the security check quickly and painlessly; just simple bag inspections. Still strong evidence of police presence in the square. Recent riots have left many in state of high alert. The enormity of the Duomo's structure grabs the casual tourist by surprise. We've seen big but the Duomo was not only large but most spectacular in architectural style. Next, we searched the streets beyond the Duomo. The glass ceiling of an infamous shopping district. I'll not mention any cliches. An ancient castle also presented itself. Then extensive gardens unfolded as we strolled for what seemed like kilometres. The gardens contained an enormous sporting arena. Not too far from the arena stood an arch of impressive porportions. A subsequent tram ride was yet another revelation for the day. So much happened all in the space of a few short hours. As exciting as it may have been for us to hire bikes that we saw; we resisted the urge to hire them as the local ambulance service was an unknown entity and one should not place themselves at too great a risk. Alternatively, the considerate tourist should not pose a threat to local residents either. When right is wrong and left is right it is all so confusing. Tram back to our temporary home for one last night. A night of reflections.

Lake Garda

On foot, by train and then ferry we arrived in Lake Garda a little before 10:00. The ferry chugged slowly across the lake stopping at several towns before we disembarked at Garda. Garda was exceptionally serene with pristine waters. October was obviously not its busiest season of the year, for tourist numbers were noticeably absent. Our walk around the headland was comfortable, in that we were able to follow the waterfront path with no steps or steep gradients. Garda's shops were welcoming and they traded typical tourist goods and wares. Down a side street, opposite what appeared to be a gallery dedicated to frogs we saw various metal sculptures with pleasing artistic merit. Later, we took a hydrofoil that delivered us to yet another lakeside town, on Lake Garda. It was here that we stopped for lunch, out of the heat and away from the countless market stalls overlooking the waterfront. I must mention that I did make a purchase prior to our luncheon break. In the main, market stalls featured handbags, autumn/winter lady's fashions and endless suppliers of scarves.

Milan Car Show

Stephen and I were out walking on Sunday morning when we stumbled upon a car show in the making. Cars of every vintage and model were entering the street barriers to park in their carefully selected categories. Vintage, police cars, driven by uniformed Caribanieri, assumed their places in the line up. A car able to travel both on the road and on the water piqued my interest as did the golf mobile. My favourite was the golf mobile, the name that I assigned it, since I was unaware of its correct title. Cars that I remember seeing in movies as a child outnumbered the contemporary models. Proud owners had polished metal until it shone in the morning's sun. Tyres were blacked and hoods opened to reveal gleaming engines. Motorbikes were included in the display and they too held appeal for onlookers.

Making Money In Italy

During our travels we have happened upon some very novel ideas for creating wealth. In Verona and again in Milan there was the very overt style -'begging in the street.' Personally, I found this, somewhat disquitening. Another that we saw was more creative, where one dressed in period costume and then offered to stand with tourists. For a fee happy snaps were taken with the afore mentioned person. The gladiators liked to enhance the photograph with some basic acting thrown in for good measure. Gladiators were popular with many tourists but I think that the approaching cold weather will deliver a blow to their financial adventures. Street buskers were uncommon but the man playing sax in a plaza in Milan had a most amazing talent. Acoustics under the arches created a most pleasant atmosphere as we strolled down to the main shopping area. In Verona there was agentleman who sat in pink satin in a pram whilst delivering his performance to all who stopped to listen. He often drew huge crowds. Crowds that frequently reeled with laughter at his antics. I was not sure how the Statue of Liberty connected with Verona but the man had been standing in the same place every day for the week that I spent in Verona. I made a small contribution to his finances. You have to love street theatre.

A Funny Thing Happened On The Way To The Arena

A funny thing happened on the way to the arena. As we approached the arena the sound of revving engines filled the air. It sounded like every 16 year old who ever lived was sitting in a car park with his friends revving his engine. Upon closer inspection it became apparent that a car rally of sorts was leaving from the Piazza Bra. In the background the arena that had seen every sight since its construction was witnessing modern man's need for speed. Tiny cars with the biggest exhausts and probably phew grande engines were shadowing one another in a short circuit to enter the rally's starting podium. Each car entered the podium's archway, for happy or glam snaps and then resumed its place in the line up. The significant feature of this event was the diminutive size of the competitor's vehicles. A paradox to the amount of noise individual cars were able to produce. The next time someone rips off my small car I shall whip out the images that I snapped through the camera's lens and explain that biggest is not always best! Go my Getz!!!

La Griglia Verona

A secret waiting to be discovered. One of the best dining experiences that we have had since arriving in Italy. Located so close to the arena that even the gladiators must smell the fine cuisine. We first dined at La Griglia last Sunday. On that occasion we had lunch. At that time we felt that we had covered sufficient tourist miles to take a break from the multitudes of visitors in the square. La Griglia was tucked away in a side street; far from the madding crowds who roamed the Piazza Bra. A table was free and we sat and recovered in a most splendid manner. Tonight, we revisited La Griglia. It was not surprising to again find that both service and food was of the highest quality. Orders taken and crisp linen by the fire. Attentive staff delivered each course with professional competence and flair. Coals were raked and withdrawn from the log fire onto the hearth. Chef then entered the dining area where he grilled our veal and fillet steak over the coals raked from the fireside. He gently seared the meat until it was just tender. A quick exit and thence, smiling wait staff delivered our plated meals from the cuccina. If wondering where to have that special dining event in Verona then La Griglia is a must do trattoria. By the fireside or in the adjacent dining space each was equal in its appeal. My recommendation is to try the veal, for it was my favourite. So tender and moist.

Leaving Verona - Taking Memories

When I arrived in Verona traffic chaos and throngs of people filled the streets surrounding Castelvecchio. All had ventured to the city for a festival. Vendors plied their wares along the narrow cobblestones on footpaths, in parks and even on some bridges. The ancient city yielded to the crowds eagerly making light of their excursion. In but a few days I have become familiar with its culture while partaking of its local habits. I've walked the streets and lanes. I've dined in. I've dined out; at cafes, ristorantes, osterias and pizzerias. Up tall steps I've climbed into the arena and watched a passing parade of marching bands. Streets of lucky stones have tormented my shoe leather until they have succumbed to the pattern of my gait on the uneven surface. Engines of vans, arpes and vespas have trilled in my ears, like bees in a tin. The sound reverberating in my head as they accelerate past and it continues long after they are out of sight. I've shopped at supermarkets and walked in circles lost for what seems like ages when foot sore a known landmark is sighted and spirits have lifted. I've developed a liking for cones of limone and banana gelato and an interest in browsing the market stalls in the piazzas scanning the displays for trinkets and souvenirs. I grown accustomed to the smell of freshly ground espressos taken on the run, by residents, hurrying to work. Street theatre performers in the square outside the arena no longer a novelty for I've acquainted myself with their rehearsed patter for tourists. I note the polizia who daily stroll the pavements casually greeting those they know. Into juliet's courtyard I've ambled with streaming tour groups.Wonder what I'll miss the most?