Cafe Torino

By day Cafe Torino has a superb outlook but by night it is spectacular. The end table on the deck overlooks the sandy beach. Rocks rim its boundaries suggesting that diners are a part of the vista. The crescent moon was slowly, setting over the dimming, waters of the Mediterranean. Headland cliffs, a perfect backdrop, and so to the castle rising from their highest peaks. Small fishing boats rowed by silhouetted figures made their way across and beyond the breakwall. One by one lights illuminated homes and streets surrounding San Terenzo. Diners were treated to the growing presence of night. Tiny specks in the sky turned to stars as the moon set. Scampi and penne delivered to crisp linen dressed tables. When sipped, Bordeaux, in large glass goblets, reflected the night lights. Chinking glass sounds separated the diners from the outside world. Patrons mesmerised by the unique location that was surrounding and cloaking them against passersby. Camera left at the apartment. No problem. My memory of this evening will be long lasting. A permanent celebration of San Terenzo, at day's end.

Friday-Lunch San Terenzo

To shake off the parking fine blues we found a little ristorante down by the Mediterranean Sea. As we waited for it to open we made a brief and successful excursion to the market stalls lining the promenade. I found a cooler skirt. It was desperately needed due to the near 30 degree temperatures that we've had here in recent days. Three euros; what a bargain! Nestled behind the headland the restaurant offered all that we needed to restore our faith in our Italian experience. A shaded table and music from our past played in the background. Kind wait staff, prompt service and fine food. We tasted the freshest breads and oils. Two salads, one of mixed greens and another with grated carrot and tomato to start. My sword fish was butterflied and lightly pan fried. I think I detected a hint of Teriyaki. Stephen had the sea bass in a salty crust. Une frizzante and vino rosso to quench our thirst from the round trip to Lerici earlier today. Dolce for us both and espresso for Stephen. So relaxed and just what we needed. Wonder what dinner will deliver?

Lerici Castle

The parking fines settled so we set off to explore the castle at Lerici. We paid the two euros to go to the entry gate via the lift rather than take the stairs. Constructed possibly around the 1100 and then extended over time the castle boasts the best vantage point over the entire bay. A paleontology museum is housed within its walls today. The displays are under renovation and should be spectacular once finished. However, that should not deter the tourist from taking the time to walk the grounds, climb the ramps to the upper landings for the views and architecture merit the visit. A few sculptures adorn some of the outside, open spaces. Large models of dinosaurs in various states of repair stand in some of the terraces. One of the largest dinosaurs appears to have toppled and lost his head. We were uncertain how that evolved, perhaps winds or storm simply blew him over. The tragic demise was unexplained and he lay there sadly needing some urgent repairs. I strongly urge camera happy people or those wishing to see the bay from its highest viewing platform to make the effort and spend a few euros to enjoy Lerici castle. The castle's signage was also interesting for the novice tourist.

Parking Fines - Italian Style

Never had a parking fine in my life and then I went to Italy. Somehow I managed to attract two parking fines in one day. Not two different places. Not even two different days. Same car, same place, same day but two separate fines on the same day for two different days. Not quite sure how it all works. Upon arriving at the car to collect our forgotten CD wallet we noticed that the screen was plastered with 4 pieces of paper. Two infringements and two additional pieces of yellow paper. Unable to determine the cause of the tickets we approached a parking attendent who in broken, English, advised us, that despite the internet advice re parking, we had to pay the fines. Okay, accept the error but how to pay. No, not her. Fines were only paid at the Post office. Back to the apartment. More interenet research; where was the local Post Office? A few streets from our apartment but now closed for the day. So on Friday, before breakfast, we made our way to locate the Post Office and to pay the two fines. Not too hard. One person serving, everyone complaining in Italian re the pace of service. We waited patiently with everyone else until it was finally our turn. At the service desk the lady behind the counter advised us that she would not process our paperwork. Non and waved us away. Une problemo. We were at the Post office and no one wanted to process our fines. What to do? Walk the kilometre to the Tourist Information Centre and seek their advice. Yes, indeed the first Post Office should have accepted our money and processed the tickets. Everyone knows that the Post Office in San terenzo is 'not professional' and very 'slow.' We didn't know that but now we did. The wonderful tourist information man gave us a map and showed us where the best post Office was as it was staffed by professionals. He was right Lerici post office was indeed most helpful. I congratulate them on their customer service. Thank you Lerici postal workers.

Portovenere

Portovenere is where the ferry disgorged all and sundry to enable the crew to take a lunch break. We did the same. For a bit of culture in our day we chose the Lord Byron Cafe. Simplistic and seasonal menu items have driven all of our meal choices since arriving in Italy. From memory it is not good to arrive anywhere in Italy for lunch during afternoon Siesta. Service is often slow but well worth the wait or as has been our recent experience. More birra for Stephen and vino rosso for myself to accompany our salads and crusty bread. The bread continues to surprise us when Italians can do many fine things with their food why is the bread so dry and far too crusty?

Cinque Terra

Our plan was to take the ferry from Lerici to Cinque Terra. From Terenzo the 30 minute walk was to be at a leisurely pace so we set off straight after breakfast. When we arrived at the wharf lagre groups were milling and queueing at the ticket office. The numbers of tourists indicated that Cinque Terra was indeed a popular tourist destination. 23 euros each was paid before we boarded the ferry. No sooner were we seated when the ferry set off at a brisk rate of knots across the marina and out onto the open sea. So crystal were its waters. So blue. The hoards of tourists disembarking at each port amazed us. The ferry's upper deck had a large contingent of cruise ship tourists. They seemed to file endlessly up the gangway. The ferry's master eased his vessel with ease and precison into every port along the way. On one occasion so great were the numbers disembarking that a full fifteen minutes passed before all those going ashore had climbed the metal ramp to the concrete below. Tourists swelled each town's population beyond capacity or so it appeared. Like swarming ants tourists made their way along the carefully tended pathways all the while soaking in the breath taking views. The natural beauty of the cliffs enticed the amateur photographers to snap all within range. Rock slips too great to describe fell hundreds of metres to the foot of the cliffs. The water's edge was littered with massive eruptions of boulders from the above, dizzying heights. Homes clung to the faces of the steepest escarpments. Precarious permanency for those cliff dwellers must at best, be considered, temporary. Rocks and boulders had torn and gouged vegetation to run like rivers down the mountainside clearing all in their path. Some homes stood between such slips unscathed for the time being. Manarola was where we paused our journey to retreat from the heat. The cool gelato inspirational and refreshing in the day's intense heat.

Flashbacks To Childhood

Shopping San Terenzo style prompted flashbacks to my childhood. When as a youngster I had walked with my mother to the local shops; my brother, is his stroller was pushed. We regularly made that walk, to make our purchases. In those days each vendor specialised in one or only a few items. The butcher sold only meat and the green grocer fruit and vegetables. Each shopping expedition a very personal experience. Customer and vendor interacted on a familiar level, calling each by name and local issues were discussed or people took time for social banter. In those days shopping tours were regular since food storage capacity was very limited. I recall the brown paper bags of items individually selected. San Terenzo shopping hasn't changed for what appears to be generations. We stopped at and shopped at the green grocer, the butcher, the bakery and the deli to make our purchases for dinner. Simple family businesses in shop fronts only wider than the doorways. The butcher shop was no more than 3 metres wide with one glass display cabinet running down one side. Four customers were considered a crowd and filled the shop. The mother served us cheerfully with her son at her right elbow and her husband at the end of the chopping block. Little space to pass one another but personal service guaranteed. Mum took our order chopped, trimmed, weighed and wrapped our steaks. All with a smile. We took great delight in unpacking the shopping. In opening each little paper bag I opened another memory from my past.

Exploring San Terenzo

Breakfast by the beach. A quiet location despite its proximity to the main thoroughfare through town. Located on the waterfront road it allowed us views of the Mediterranean and the locals making their way to work or to the beach. I tried several of my 50 word, Italian vocabulary to successfully order breakfast. Nourished we stretched our legs to explore more of the immediate waterfront. The historical connection with famous poets was revealed as we walked around the point and strolled at a most leisurely pace. Stephen explained its past links with poets like Shelley and Byron. The walk follows the base of steep crumbling cliffs of ancient lava flows. Flows so old that they are now crumbling and in many parts made safe by giant nets and ropes.

San Terenzo

San Terenzo offered us the warmest of welcomes. With no access to the apartment we made our way to the village in search of a luncheon venue. A good way to assist those unfamiliar with an area and with no knowledge of the best places to eat we've learnt to note the number of customers already dining as an indication of its merit. Empty restaurants and cafes side by side are often a sign not to tempt fate. We selected a cafe specialising in fish. Aqua frizzante and vino rosso to begin. Next, a green salad that we were privileged to be able to dress ourselves. The oil and vinegar so subtle and tasty. Crusty bread and thence, the freshest of fish, presented on large white platters by a waiter with more English than my Italian. I thought that I had eaten fresh fish in my recent memory but after that lunch I am sure that was not the case. The fish was possibly caught that day and most certainly, never had been frozen. The waiter was delighted to tell of of his travels and two month holiday in Australia. An added bonus for us. He appeared to understand my limited Italian and appreciated that I had attempted, out of respect, to use his native language.

Lunch In Lerici

Lerici on foot. I can highly recommend the walk. A few kilometres of easy walking by the water's edge was a great way to spend a morning. The Mediterranean Sea was like a mill pond. Bathers walked back and forth in the calm waters to cool themselves from the morning's increasing heat. Some bathed like lizards on the rocks and soaked in the sun's rays. So many passersby had deep bronzed tans. Those laying beneath us on the sand or on sun lounges shared the same hues. Skin so tanned one guessed that hours of relaxed sun baking was commonplace. We wound our way along the boulevard stopping occasionally to browse the shops that dotted our path. The colours of the buildings reminded of the deep and intense colours last seen in Rousillon, in France. A must do diversion is to walk the tunnel so cave-like and that lead to a hidden restaurant. The enormous cavern now lined with concrete provided storage for all things maritime. Back outside in the sunshine colourful boats of all types moored at the marina attracted the attention of visitors, tourists and perhaps even residents. One gent was obviously providing a type of taxi service boat to dock and back again. His busy day apparent for all to see; ferrying divers, sightseers and fishermen to their boats. Having walked several kilometres from our apartment Stephen and I sat sipping cool drinks at Bar Corona. My drink of choice vino Rosso and Stephen un birra. The shaded aspect provided a tranquil view of the world. So restful that we decided to take our lunch break there too. The time well spent and oh so relaxed following our lunch. The return walk, whilst not challenging was perhaps a little warm without the benefit of hats and the loss of shaded passages that we had enjoyed on the walk to Lerici.

Italy

Landed at 6:00am and cleared customs and luggage in just a few minutes. Amazingly quick. Located the car hire place that opened at 7:30 so we sat and waited. Car secured and on our way. NAVMAN maps despite computer advising that they had uploaded they actually had not. Un problemo! Google maps don't reflect actual road signage and we became lost trying to navigate without accurate route instructions. So after many hours on the road we finally made our way first to Genova and from there to the town where we are staying. Problem number 2. We were unable to connect with the lady who was to give us access to the apartment. Left message and made our way through the heat to a lovely little restaurant nearby. No car access to the apartment so car is parked in a local public, parking area a short walk away. When we hadn't heard from the apartment connection we made a way back to the apartment and noticed that the residence next door had the same name. Tried our luck and a kind gentleman, called Bill had a key. Lucky us! Problem is that no one had been to clean it since its last rental. Not too bad. Shower desperately needed so after 38 hours refreshing watering was flowing. Door bell rang and there stood the lady who was to give us initial access and the cleaner. Now almost 3:00pm local time. All sorted, apartment nice and clean and we feel rest was needed. Just a little nap, that couldn't be too bad. Woke just after 10:00pm to the sound of the phone ringing. Can't take messages or make calls as the phone keeps disconnecting. Endeavouring to contact home for NAVMAN support to correct the download error there so next legs of the holiday are more direct. However, in all fairness the scenery near the coast was spectacular. Concrete carriageways defied gravity and floated from one mountain to the next with the greatest ease. Tunnels too numerous to count spread ever before us. Spectacular feats of engineering.

Singapore Lounge At Sydney Airport

Milan, it seems that I am on my way. Floods in France in 2008. Strikes in France in 2010. I remain ever positive. Italy will be a good luck holiday. It's starting well. I am seated on a comfy lounge looking at the runway and the comings and goings of seemingly silent planes. The glass the only barrier. I have sampled the bubbles, the little salmon triangular sandwiches, the coffee and even the Camembert with crackers. I must exercise restraint and caution for the journey is to be a long one and the in flight food supposed to be memorable. I recall my last International flight that left from CDG. The two airports could not be more different if they tried. The noise, the smell and the unpleasant security staff at CDG have left a scar on that holiday memory. By comparison the Sydney experience has been one of ease, no stress and most surprising of all, no queues. Even great shopping but I will patiently, wait until I reach Milan for that. I did briefly stop by the Chanel counter. Just a small gesture to the keen staff waiting for a sale.

Packing For Italy

Two more days before we take to the highway. Pack first. What do we need? How much can we carry? Remember last year! Trying to be more efficient in my selection and packing for Milan. Definitely need my dictionary but do I need my 50 words in Italian,CD? Too many decisions and no clothes even considered at this time. My past tells me that I always take too many clothes that I don't end up wearing. To avoid that this year I have intentionally purchased a smaller suitcase. I only hope that I don't regret having made that decision. This really is the first day where I realised that I am excited to be travelling again to Italy. Toscana in 2008 still holds vivid memories of the villa, the vespers and the countryside. I've been sidetracked. I have just selected my share of music for the road trips from Milan. 10 CD's each in the wallet. Plan is to rotate the play list each day. Worked well last time since we knew no Italian and the local radio was most confusing. I don't sing along, fortunately. No International incidents from this traveller.

Garden Wildlife

A brown, speckled egg revealed itself as the lawn was mowed. Two plovers hasted across the grass warning the noisy mower to be cautious. Their calls alerted us to the presence of their precious egg laying on the grass. Some birds create intricate nests with girth and depth to protect the unhatched eggs. Not so the plovers. Simple sharing of a space. Uncomplicated co-existence based on mutual respect. No long hours of sitting to warm and hatch the egg; reliance on the warmth from the day's sun. Seemed to work for everyone. I ate my eggs at breakfast wondering how long the brown egg at the bottom of the garden would take to hatch.

Picnics

Life's simple pleasures. Yesterday's weather invited us to take in the view and enjoy the fruits of our labours. Pate, strawberries, a round of triple, cream brie cheese, quince paste and a fresh baguette shared beneath the peppercorn tree. Ginger beer in a tall glassed. It was chilled with cubes of ice. I sipped my drink slowly as did Stephen his lemon, lime and bitters. Relaxing under the peppercorn tree may soon be our favourite place for a picnic. No crowds, no parking problems and the best seats in the house.

Grand Final

Christopher's soccer team has had a pleasing season of wins with a few losses to keep player's on their toes. The skill on occasions has surprised with Chris scoring a hat trick. So great his excitement that we received text messages in Queensland telling us of his accomplishment. Hat tricks no longer just for cricket or so it seems. The last game of the season and it was indeed a Grand Final. Stephen tells me that blood was spilled. It was Christopher's from a ball to the face. Red and yellow cards fluttered like confetti. Players cautioned and players sent off from the other team. Congratulations Largs. Love the medal Chris. Crazy Sunday and Mad Monday. I am still processing both concepts.

Just A Little Dust

Before and after dusting. Just a little dust, under the peppercorn tree. What a difference! The truck dumped the dust in the top drive. It was not long after first coffee of the day. Only one wheel barrow so Kate's collection of buckets were called into use. Sam and I moved the dust via whatever means we had. Stephen spread and raked the heaps to the paver's edging. Best three hours of the day. Dust delivered, spread, raked, compacted and watered. Time flies when you are having fun. Looks so crisp now that it's finished. I am not sure what our next project will be but it is pleasing to see this one exceed expectations!

Vases are for flowers

I love flowers; in the garden and in vases. Flowers have a way of enlivening the spirit. It is the fragrance that greets you or the blooms that bring colour to a space that attracts even the casual observer. Flowers by their very design are usually delicate in nature. Petals balanced delicately on stems or stalks hanging in patterns that nature decreed. Well, in my garden I must rethink my age old notions of what constitutes a flower. The one outside my bedroom window has a growth habit to surpass Jack's beanstalk. I checked it out this morning and my best estimate is that it now measures almost two metres in length. Its girth cannot be measured by my thumb and index finger. Its weight is massive. The fact that the plant continues to support its weight surprises me. It is far from glamorous to my eye. Birds don't share my view for I have witnessed their attempts to extract the sweet nectar from the troubled flowers. Their tortured shapes defy the excitement that I recall when I first saw the bulbous bud emerging from the base of the silver grey leaves. What is this flower, this bloom that grows so long?

Concreting On Fathers' Day!

Just had to buy that concrete and lay those pavers today. Why Fathers' Day, the day when fathers were expecting to be spoilt? A truth to be sure but the reality was rather different. Milan is three weeks away and we still have much to do before we fly out. Hence, this morning after our delightful breakfast I finished chipping out the lawn and Stephen concreted pavers under the peppercorn tree. The free form shape chipped from the grass with a hoe will soon be filled with some kind of crushed granite or similar. The fill will be delivered next weekend and then that part of the garden will be signed off. Yay!!! Looking forward to taking a break from the 6 and often 7 hour long days where we've been working in the yard.

Fathers' Day Breakfast

Fathers' Day; a time for family. That's what today was all about. At least for a few hours. On the verandah of Margan's, at Broke. An ideal setting for a leisurely breakfast. Four of us ordered and relaxed whilst taking in the vista. The flash hen house off to my right and the acre of vegetable garden ensured that only the freshest produce was on the menu. Coffee and eggs Benedict for me. The others tasted items ranging from mushrooms, omelette, sausage, bacon and eggs. Pleasing variety! The tall glasses of juice attracted lively conversation as those partaking attempted to identify the mixed ingredients. Happy Fathers' Day. Hope that you all enjoyed breakfast.

I've Always Wanted One

While shopping today I spied something that I have been searching for for many months. Not expecting to see it sitting on top of one of the highest shelves at Bunnings. There it was; just wanting to be bought and taken home, to a 'nice' garden. Perhaps the pictures tell the story better than I. I have toiled in the yard for more than 6 hours today. Body is sore and brain is not functioning at all. Water rises gently and slowly makes its way down the urn. So relaxing to watch. I also planted white blooms and an enormous fern.