Auxerre

Auxerre, a place of well preserved, medieval, architecture. When we arrived we made our way down to the village centre for a quick bite of lunch. As soon as we entered the main precinct we were immediately impressed by the beautiful old buildings. It seemed that every other building was a testament to the past. Fascinating statues or sculptures dotted the squares between streets. I noted that a number of statues and indeed buildings reminded me of images from books or movies from my youth. I wondered what it would be like to be a time traveller. Perhaps if I had enough wine with lunch I could imagine myself walking the streets in period dress and making purchases in the shops of the day. We roamed the streets for some hours before the cold weather had our teeth chattering like our shoes on the cobbles. Reluctantly we returned to where we had parked the car where we checked into our hotel; the Hotel de Parc des Marchaux. Later that night we agreed that Auxerre was one of those villages in which we would spend a little more time. We wanted to explore the village further. Following one of the best breakfasts of our road trip we set out to discover more than we could see on foot the day before. Parking some distance from the hotel we found that Auxerre had an abundance of churches dating back hundreds and hundreds of years. What appealed to us was the fact that those now managing the churches had insisted on respectful visitations by tourists. Sadly, some tourists have to be given more direction than others as at times they behave as if they've left their manners in their luggage back in their swank hotel rooms. We were reminded that in Notre Dame in Paris, it was particularly disappointing for us to see that many tourists showed so little respect for those attending mass while they roamed and collected happy snaps; oblivious to the solemn reverence of those engaged in worship. In Auxerre the church rightfully regulated and clearly stated its expectations of those who wished to visit. One medieval church was made more remarkable by the requirement of absolute silence by those who entered. Gentle steps accentuated our calm passageway from the front doors to the pulpit, having first past windows of colour and shadows from steel bars. As we exited this church we became aware of the masonry and the intricate detail of the sculptures adorning its facade. We had come to expect and understand that in France people go home for lunch and businesses of every type close for a period of time. However, I can not fully comprehend and regulate my penal colony mindset against going to work twice each day. Perhaps I need more time in France to adjust my thinking. Today was Monday and we had set out early so as to avoid the town's lunchtime lock down. Foot sore but happy little Vegemites were we as we ventured into shops where no one spoke any English. Truthfully the autumn weather had descended and this was one of those days when it was a welcome relief to pop inside a shop to browse for some respite from the fierce cold.

Chateau Chenonceau

Chateau Chenonceau. I am going to call it a lady's chateau because of the many feminine influences throughout its grounds. Car parking was particularly easy at this chateau - more than adequate. We selected the full tour--castle, garden, maze, wax works and Ipod guided tour. The stroll along the avenue of trees leading to the chateau created a ceiling of green, leafy foliage. To the left of this walk stood a maze of foliage; a brilliant use of hedging plants. Another building further along to our left housed the wax museum, a self service cafe and secreted beyond this the most elegant garden that hosted a fine dining restaurant. A significant tower stood to the immediate right forecourt of the chateau. Some distance to the left was a cottage of impressive proportions and known as the Chancellery. Upon entering the chateau you note the high ceilings, the resplendent wall hangings and the vast collection of antiques. This chateau boasts original decor and furnishings along with fabric of the finest quality to line its walls. The Ipod spoken and video text greatly assisted each of us to interpret the history surrounding the items of furniture and so too the paintings. Despite its age the chateau has withstood the ravages of revolution and two world wars rather well. The bed chambers reflected the individual taste for colour and furnishings of occupants through time. Various owners have successfully and tastefully made additions to the original building in a manner that compliments rather than detracts from the original architecture. The guard's room, the library, the study, the galleries, bed chambers and the kitchen did not disappoint the tourist in me. Perhaps my favourite was the kitchen with its shiny brass cooking utensils adorning the walls or the original meat chopping blocks and knives placed as they might have been when in actual use by the butchers, chefs or cooks of the day. One could not help but notice the floral tributes and arrangements designed to highlight the functionality of every room that we entered. For example, the kitchen staff's dining room table was laden with fresh produce of every size, shape and colour. Floral arrangements were created on site with fleurs from the chateau's garden. I speculate that the fresh produce was similarly sourced. For me the points of interest - size of the gardens and the estate and of course, the authentic ambiance.

Chambord

This was to be the second chateau that we were to visit whilst staying in the Loire Valley. Chambord was exceptional in its size but less splendid in its inclusions. For me the chateau's architecture was its most striking and memorable feature. If one could consider a chateau masculine then Chambord would proudly boast this label. Its staircases must be seen to be fully understood. A double spiral stairway so beautiful in form and bewildering to the eye draws one upwards to tread the still white steps, albeit weathered, from eons of foot fall. A sense of male dominated place of residence overwhelmed the interior spaces. Due to its size one cannot hope to view the chateau in its entirety. The audio explanations provide credible engagement with some rooms and spaces yet the lack of original furnishings require the accidental tourist to visualise and only wonder about the lifestyle of those who dwelt here. The village feel has been recreated and UNESCO's stewardship should see future restorations return some colour to the grand chateau.

Lundi in Chivenghy

Blois to Chivenghy leg of our road trip. You wind your way up and down, through rural vistas to discover Chivenghy. The serenity of the whole area was noted as soon as we stopped at the park by the river. Chivenghy was mostly breaking for lunch when we arrived so many commercial enterprises were closed. However, we felt the village to be so charming we sought accommodation but much to our disappointment vacancies in the town's centre were not to be found. What was pleasing was the fact that despite the hour, tourists could freely access most of the historic sites surrounding the old chateau. Statues in the old square almost invite you to sit and share a cobblestone. The ancient ruins present more than a notion of past splendour, so stoic against the elements. How did the builders achieve such grand designs at such perilous heights? Today birds maintain vigil over the loftiest of spaces that appear, in places, to be at risk of collapse. If you have an eye for the unusual seek out the large lizard that suns itself on the window ledge of a residence in the medieval township. I thought it to be a ceramic adornment at first glance but upon closer scrutiny it did move. Dilemma-Where to sleep? The hour grew later as we had afforded ourselves the luxury of time in examining this quite location. The absence of flocks of tourists allowed close encounters with the various points of interest. No noisy banter within churches or cathedrals here. Sensitive and restful reflections on what life may have been like so long ago. So hard to imagine the daily life and its challenges back when this part of the world was new.

Prueilly

Big day. Vita Weet biscuits that had travelled all the way with us from Australia were carefully placed in a fancy carry bag hoping that they would not be a box of crumbs after their long flight from OZ, their trip to Paris and then Saint Aignan. For good measure we packed them with some chocolates that we'd purchased on a recent day's outing. Prueilly punched into Navman. I could sense the nervous excitement. All of us were to meet, for the first time, our fellow bloggers, Susan and Simon, who write Days on the Claise. Fortunately, the journey there was uneventful and we travelled through some pretty rural landscapes. Our lunch appointment was for 12:00 but we arrived much earlier due to the Saint Aignan market schedule. We took the opportunity to explore the village. In the village there was a church erected to celebrate the millennium; the 1000 millennium. It was how shall I say, 'old?' Construction completed in 1009 according to the dated stone on the facade. Architecture of this church was simple yet impressive in both its size and structure given its ancient construction techniques. The village nestles comfortably on either side of the river where we enjoyed seeing the ever so subtle hints of Autumn in the trees. Our meeting with Simon and Susan was a highlight of the day as was the ride in Celestine Citroen. Over a fine lunch in a local restaurant we became really well acquainted with Susan and Simon who afterwards treated us to a tour of their home renovations. What a design and major undertaking! The pictures posted on their blog and the accompanying text did provide insight into the project but seeing it for oneself allowed us all to appreciate the history of the site and the many difficulties encountered when one tackles such work. The skylight in the ceiling in the upstairs bathroom demonstrates the creativity that they bring to the project whilst maintaining faith with original features and fixtures. I commend their energy and patience and wish them well. We would loved to have stayed longer but we had to travel back to our hotel in Blois in order to retrieve Stephen's passport from the Kate and Chris who had returned to Paris.

Chateau Valencay

Real people obviously lived here until quite recently by comparison to some of the other chateaux. Impeccable parks, lawns, a deer enclosure, an animal nursery, gardens and fountains. The clipped and manicured gardens alert the tourist to expect great things of the interior of the chateau. When you enter the first thing that you note is the attention to detail. Inside each room or gallery were furnishings and or dressings depicting the lifestyle of the former residents. Make certain that you include a trip to the kitchen in this chateau. You'll be surprised by what you find. The proportions are immense but the most distinguishing feature is the number of so called modern inclusions and conveniences that are displayed in the kitchen date back to Napoleon's era. Running water, bakers and cook's ovens. A cellar of generous elegance. I can't imagine what it must have been like to actually have worked within the walls of that kitchen. The cave-like walk to access the kitchen does not prepare you for the well preserved and seemingly authentic items showcased. As each of us in our party left this chateau we felt that we had connected in a small way as the displays had been so carefully staged as to represent a functioning place of residence.

Fougeres-ser-Bievre

Following the Cave Simoneau stop we headed to Fougeres-ser-Bievre where we came upon an ancient chateau. Unfortunately, it was closed so photo shots were rather limited. However, it was lunch time so we were determined to eat the local cuisine. Only one restaurant was open so the choice was easy. Tentative entry through the doors into the restaurant nearly had our small group make a hasty exit. The decor was interesting to say the least. Quaint is not the correct term to describe the interior nor is the term unusual for neither quite reflect our impressions. Old, traditional perhaps, dated, antiquated, hmmm, homely. None of these suffice. There were home grown tapestries on the walls some depicting dolphins, sea captains, and a lady who had a bird in her hair sitting with a cat. Lots more but too many to describe here in great length. Tables were dressed in floral tablecloths of mauve, yellow and pink hues. Whereas the linen napkins were brown with yellow geometric stitched patterns on one side. We decided against all reason to stay for lunch. The menu was most impressive with offerings of fifty or more choices. Yet when ordering we were advised that they were unavailable today. After a number of unsuccessful attempts we realised that the specials of the day were the only options actually available. Today was my day! My salade turned out to be the best choice on the menu. I can't disclose its name but it came with lots of lettuce, walnuts, goat's cheese, toast, jambon, tomato and dressing. I'll not reveal what the others ordered as you may wish to discover this restaurant for yourself. Some days you just get lucky. By the way. Please don't ask Kirstie about her lunch on this occasion as she is still in therapy. I suggest that the reader double clicks on the shot of the interior to see a full screen image so as to best understand this dining event.

Cave Simoneau

Emails and subsequent telephone contact with fellow bloggers resulted in an unscheduled visit to Cave Simoneau. Navman located this little gem not far from Saint Aignan. The vineyard dates back several hundred years and it had ties with Chateau Chenonceau. Stephen, Kirstie and Michael tasted a variety of wines and were privy to a very personal and informative chat about wine growing in the local area. The hostess and her young work experience assistant were most generous with their time; especially since it was harvest time. Visitors to Saint Aignan should make every effort to discover this family run vineyard. A different experience from the Australian, tourist, cellar doors. The prices of all wines and other items were so reasonable compared to Australian equivalents that you must be tempted to make several purchases. In the garden by the driveway an old wine press stands proudly despite its great age. The old wine press a reminder of the vineyard's long history.

Pompidou Centre

 Salad Nicoise for me and possibly even healthy. We sat eating lunch at a little cafe close to the Pompidou Centre as we had wanted to maximise our time once inside the galleries. The Paris Pass allowed us to enter without queuing once again. Yay! Good investment. Works dating from 1905 - 2010 dominated the two floors that we visited. Each floor and wall space was absolutely crammed with remarkable modern art, paintings, spectacular optical illusions, sculptures, everything Picasso, video texts and so much more. Hours later a little foot sore the four of us headed for the gallery's cafe for a cool drink. As we were sitting in the elevated cafe we became aware of live, contemporary, movement art being played out below us. Naked cavorting people attracted a gallery of surprised spectators. A must see place for those who may usually shy away from the traditional museums or galleries. Take a very close look at some of the exhibits as some of the finer details will amaze. On a clear day the views from the upstairs galleries provide good camera opportunities too.